Cabochon Face Push Molds for Jewelry and Doll Making

For the many beginner sculptors out there, here are three push molds that will help you more quickly “put a better face” on your art projects.

With all the details required in sculpting faces, they are the hardest part of the human body to master; the second hardest being the hands.  I have another push mold for the hands as well.

Here you can see that the features are sculpted into the doll, but with a small sculpting tool and an exacto knife, you can easily recreate original faces.  This will give you at least the scale of the faces, so you can resculpt the nose and know where it begins and ends.

These molds will also help you practice adding glass eyes.  Because the faces are only 1.5 inches tall, you can use white glass beads as a base for the eyes and then paint on your irises and pupils.  This allows you to always be in control of the resultant scale of the eyes.

When you look at the dolls sculpted by today’s master doll artists, what separates the good doll artists from the masters is the ability of the masters to perfect the scale of all things shown in the sculpture:  The eyes, curls, bows, crowns, hands, beads, fabric prints, etc. are all in scale.  When you see pictures of their work, it is impossible to determine whether the sculpture is 5 inches tall or 36 inch tall.  That’s how you can tell the master works from the beginners.

Below is a video showing you how to use the silicone molds.  I think you will enjoy it!

And Below are some Pins from Pinterest that will give you some beautiful inspiration:

As you can see from above, the faces set the scene, but they are surrounded by the artists’ creativity.  Each of the faces pendants are a work of art.  Look closely at how the artists use embellishments that are perfectly in scale to the faces.


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How to Make Baby Fairies with Push Molds & Polymer Clay



If you are a budding doll artist whose interest has been captured by the masterful OOAK doll artist who show their work all over the internet, you too can learn to sculpt dolls.  Instead of starting with anatomy, and the boring technique of starting from the basics, jump right in and learn to sculpt using easy-too-use push mold and polymer clay.

You will learn how to manipulate the polymer clay, how to make the body parts and scale, all while creating beautiful baby fairies in the process.


If you have made about as much polymer clay jewelry as you can take, maybe it’s time to try your hand at another art form, that being polymer clay one of a kind art dolls.  The easiest and fastest way to get up and running is to start with training wheels — I mean, push molds and polymer clay.

All of the doll molds sold at come with an online course that teaches you how to make the dolls in pieces.  This way, once you know how to connect the doll parts together, you can use the molds and literally make your own creations.


As state above, you will slowly learn about scale, which is one of the most important things about doll making.  As you look at the dolls shown on the internet by the master artists, one thing they all have in common is that they have mastered “scale” and everything on the doll is perfectly scaled.  By starting out with your own figure in polymer clay, you will get a jump on the learning process.


The Baby Fairy Push Mold Doll Mold does come with two extra faces, one of which is a sleeping face.  Many of the dolls at White Gothic Studios comes with extra faces.  If you want to see a video on how to use the second faces, check out below.


The baby fairies can be made using polymer clay and mohair wool for hair.  I use a dental tool and an exacto knife to do the actual sculpting/creating of the doll.  And I have butterfly wings that can be printed out onto white shipping labels that give you the colorful butterfly and cicada wings for the baby fairy.

If you are the type that wants everything you need at hand, you may be interested in the Baby Fairy Beginners Kit.  This comes with the clay, push mold, two extra face molds, sculpting tools, bag of hair and a link to print out your fairy wings and the online course.

There is also a Baby Fairy Deluxe Beginners Kit that comes with the clay, push mold, two extra face molds, sculpting tools, cloth-covered armature wire, bag of hair, the online course, an online course to make fairy gardens and a 90 minute DVD showing you how to make the baby fairies step-by-step.


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Ballerina Project Links – Two Projects

FIRST PROJECT: Intricate Pose:


Ballerina Push Mold – Buy Online

Ballerina Push Mold Part 1A

Ballerina Push Mold Part 1B:

Ballerina Push Mold Part 2

Ballerina Push Mold Part 3

Ballerina Push Mold Part 4

Ballerina Push Mold Part 5

Ballerina Push Mold Part 6

Ballerina Push Mold Part 7

Ballerina Push Mold Part 8

Ballerina Push Mold Part 9

Ballerina Push Mold Part 10

Ballerina Push Mold Part 11

Ballerina Push Mold Part 12

BALLERINA PROJECT TWO:(Ballerina on Pointe)

Ballerina on Pointe Part 1

Ballerina on Pointe Part 2

Ballerina on Pointe Part 3

Ballerina on Pointe Part 4

Ballerina on Pointe Part 5

Ballerina on Pointe Part 6

Ballerina on Pointe Part 7

Ballerina on Pointe Part 8

Ballerina on Pointe Part 9

Ballerina on Pointe Part 10

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Ballerina Project 2 – Part 10 – The End


Bag of Mohair Wool Hair

Bag of Mohair Wool Hair

Once again, the hair I use is mohair yarn, pulled apart and tied into little bundles. They are then strategically glued on the head to create the doll’s hair style.  This process is also covered in detail in the Sculpting Fairies in Polymer Clay DVD and also a slightly different version on the baby dolls in Making Baby Dolls in Polymer Clay.

Once you become proficient in making polymer clay dolls, you may want to switch to actual angora and goat hair.  You can find suppliers on the internet,  Most professional dolls use this type of hair.  It can be pricey for a beginner, but once you start producing collectible art dolls, you will want to start using the highest grade materials in making your dolls.

This doll, I used a blonde-colored wool and glued it into a bun type style.


pink-tulle-circlesUsing pink tulle circles that I found in a wedding aisle, I cut them into two smaller circles and gathered them into a two-layer tulle skirt.

I tied the skirts onto the doll and using a glue gun, flattened them down onto the doll.

I laid down a bead of glue on top of the skirt along the waistline, and then sprinkled and pressed tiny glass beads into it to give the skirt a little “costuming” an a little “glitter”.  I did the same along the neckline, and then added two larger pearls.

At this point, the doll is done.



Ballerina Push Mold – Buy Online

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Ballerina Project 2 – Part 9


Once your doll is completely “half-baked” with all of it’s parts, it will be time for a final baking.  This is the time you will bake the doll at the manufacturer’s temperature and time recommendations.  I use Super Sculpey and Sculpey III, so I bake my dolls at 260 degrees (because my oven runs hot) and leave it in there for 30 to 40 minutes, depending upon the size of the doll.  It is best to follow your manufacturer’s directions as they know all of the safety precautions and they have run many, many tests.

All the doll to fully cool, and go over the doll for any last minute scrapings or sandings.  Once it is sanded, wash with a little water with dish soap and dry completely.


ballerina-covered-in-resinI’ve gone over the painting too many times to go over it again in this project.  I do also cover this in close up gory detail in my Sculpting Fairies in Polymer Clay Video and my Making Baby Fairies Video.

I use acrylic paints, tiny liner brushes and a blending gel to keep the paint smooth and give you an extra little working time in case you have to wipe off any uneven eye brows, etc.

Once you are finished painting the face, the body suite (if you need to cover any spots on the clay body suit), and the ballet slippers, it is time to coat the doll in resin.



To the left is the resin I found that comes out without any yellow cast,  It is easy to use and lasts a while if you are making 7 inch dolls in polymer clay.

I put a big clump of clay in the center of the popcorn bucket so the doll was stable and then using a throw-away paintbrush (Dollar Store), I coated the doll in resin.  Off camera, I also coated the painted base.

They both needed to dry overnight.  Once they are dry, the doll is way too shiny.

So I paint one layer of ModPodge Matt finish and that takes away a lot of the shine, but then I coat it with a layer or two of Johnson Paste Wax.  This gives the doll a “porcelain shine”.  It mimics the porcelain dolls the best.


Ballerina Push Mold – Buy Online

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